Ode to Morocco: a historic World Cup

Looking back on Morocco's incredible run, and what it meant to an entire region during the first ever Middle Eastern World Cup.

A World Cup in the Middle East

Qatar is the first Arab, Muslim-majority, Middle Eastern country to host a FIFA World Cup. That’s a notable shift, necessary for a global sport lacking global share of its power.

The hosts- having purchased the event through bribes, under the auspices of sharing that power- intended a distinctly Middle Eastern affair. It was successful at times, distinct to great effect.

It was also controversial. Blood-soaked stadiums haunted the tournament’s every match. A rigidity of rules, a clash of “values” caused western ire. Qataris argued “hypocrisy” back. Some symbols were banned. Others, allowed.

The event was peaceful. The place felt manufactured. The interpretations remain complex.

Qatar hoped their curated team would make a historic mark, achieving footballing success on behalf of the Arab world. It didn’t. Morocco did instead. 

Morocco, at the heart of things

There are several “downtown” clusters that spread out across the desert of greater Doha. It’s empty-sand-desert-skylines, then a collection of skyscrapers erupts out of the dust. Inside of the cluster, its hotels and restaurants and windowless smoky bars tucked away on the 13th floor. Many of the skyscrapers turn out to be utterly empty. Just fancy facades for show, like Doha. 

I still can’t quite figure out this place. It’s hard to find its heart.